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Evidence · Failure & recovery

What goes wrong — and the correct fix

A working library of the failures we actually see on Sarawak jobs, each shown three ways: what you see, why it happens, and the correct recovery. It’s not a scare list — it’s how you tell a real fix from a cover-up, and how the right specification designs the problem out before it starts.

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Board swelling

FailureRecovery
What you seeA door or carcass panel has puffed up along an edge or base — the surface lifts and the board feels soft.
WhyWater reached the board core, usually through an unsealed cut edge, a failed joint, or standing water under a sink. Once the core wicks moisture it swells and won't recover.
Correct fixReplace the affected panel, trace and stop the water path, and re-seal or upgrade the exposed edges. Where the zone stays wet, move that carcass to a non-wood material.
Design it outMatch the material to the moisture zone from the start — a non-wood (aluminium/ACP) carcass in the wet zone removes the board-swelling risk at the source. Joints, edges and seals still need correct specification.
Prepare for installation安装前准备Bersedia untuk pemasangan

Poor silicone seal

FailureRecovery
What you seeThe silicone line at a worktop, splashback or sink is cracked, peeling or mouldy — water can track behind it.
WhyWrong sealant grade, a damp or dusty surface at application, or an over-wide gap — the bead loses adhesion and splits.
Correct fixCut the failed bead out completely, clean and dry the joint, then re-apply the correct neutral-cure sanitary-grade silicone in one continuous, properly-tooled line.
Design it outSpecify the right sealant for the joint and confirm the gap width before install. A joint sized and prepped correctly is what keeps water out — not the panel alone.
Maintain what you bought保养维护Selenggara apa yang anda beli

Aluminium scratch

FailureRecovery
What you seeA visible scratch or scuff on an aluminium frame, front or profile — often from moving appliances or site traffic.
WhyAbrasion through the powder-coat or anodised surface during handling, cleaning with the wrong pad, or dragged cookware and appliances.
Correct fixLight marks polish out; deeper scratches are touched in with a colour-matched coating pen, or the visible profile is refinished or replaced so the repair disappears.
Design it outProtect finished surfaces through the rest of the build, and clean with a soft cloth — never an abrasive pad — so the coating stays intact.
Prepare for installation安装前准备Bersedia untuk pemasangan

Uneven or leaning wall

FailureRecovery
What you seeA gap opens between the cabinet and a wall that leans or bows, or the worktop reads out of level along the run.
WhyThe wall itself is out of plumb — common in older or fast-built homes. Cabinets are straight, so the wall's lean shows up as a tapering gap.
Correct fixClose it with a scribed filler panel cut to the wall line, so the run reads straight and the gap disappears instead of being caulked over.
Design it outMeasure wall plumb at the site-measurement stage and design in scribe and filler allowances before production, so nothing is left to on-site guesswork.
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Window water ingress

FailureRecovery
What you seeWater appears on the sill or inside the frame after heavy rain — pooling, staining or a damp reveal.
WhyBlocked or missing drainage (weep) holes, a failed perimeter seal, or the frame set without the right fall, so wind-driven water can't escape and backs up.
Correct fixClear or add the drainage path, renew the perimeter seal, and correct the sill fall so water drains out the way the system is designed to.
Design it outA correctly drained and sealed aluminium window handles Sarawak's driving rain — but the drainage detail, the seals and the installation all have to be right, not just the frame.
Maintain what you bought保养维护Selenggara apa yang anda beli

Lifting or chipped edge

FailureRecovery
What you seeThe edge banding on a door or panel is peeling, chipped or lifting at a corner — dirt and moisture can now reach the core.
WhyWeak edge adhesive, heat or steam at the edge, or an impact. Once the band lifts, the exposed core is vulnerable.
Correct fixRe-band or replace the affected edge with a moisture-resistant band (such as a PUR-bonded edge), sealing the core again.
Design it outSpecify a tougher edge band on high-use and near-wet runs from the start — the edge is where a board panel is most exposed, so it's worth the upgrade.
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Termite attack

FailureRecovery
What you seeTimber or board components show tunnelling, hollowing or frass — termites have got into the carcass or substructure.
WhySarawak's subterranean termites feed on cellulose, so any untreated timber or board in a risk zone is food.
Correct fixRemove and replace the affected components, treat the area, and substitute a non-wood material where the risk is highest — termites can't feed on aluminium or ACP.
Design it outNon-wood construction removes the termite-food risk from the carcass itself. Where timber stays, insist on treated substructure and keep it out of direct ground and wet contact.

Avoid the failure in the first place

The fix you never need is the right material, in the right zone.

Most of these start as a specification decision, not a repair. Match the material to your moisture zone first — then price and buy on alumax.pro.

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